Rover's Vikingship Overhaul of the six cilinder engine
part one
Rover's Vikingship


This part of site is an attempt to organize and add to the web resources for the Rover SD1 to form a cohesive and easily usable guide for those of us without easy access to expert repair and/or advice. It is not offered in any way as a definitive source and we take no responsibility for any errors that may exist.
Webmaster Rene Winters

the Six Cilinder

The basis of any successful car is a reliable engine and the service that backs it up but even with the best,wear and tear will still occur, until eventually overhaul becomes necessary. We shall be looking at the Rover 2300/2600 engine. This in-line six cylinder overhead cam engine is available in two sizes. Producing 123 and 137 BHP respectively. Identification is made easy by the serial number. The smaller engine is prefixed 10C for manual and 11C for automatic applications. The larger engine is prefixed 12C and 13C.
The overhead camshaft is driven from the crankshaft by an external belt.
The camshaft operates directly on the inlet valves, whilst the same cams operate the exhaust valves via rockers.
Twin SU HS6 carburettors are fitted to both engines. They are designed to give more stringent air/fuel mixture control and in consequence exhaust emissions are reduced. With the SD1 Rover faced stronger competition than ever like.

A special feature of this carburettor is the capstat temperature compensated jet.

Dismantling Sequence

We start by removing the ignition distributor and the alternator.
the fan blades, timing belt cover, thermostat housing and thermostat
the inlet manifold and carburettors.
the exhaust manifold and the heater pipe assembly.

At the rear of the engine, remove the flywheel and the transmission adaptor plate
and after taking off the sump and removing the oil pick up pipe and strainer remove the rear oil seal housing complete with the seal.
Now slacken the camshaft drive belt and slip it from the drive gear. If the belt has been contaminated by oil, It must be replaced. Once the belt has been removed, the crankshaft must not be rotated until after the head has been removed.
If you do so you may damage the valves and pistons. So it's a good idea to take the head off now.

First remove the camshaft cover,
then release the fourteen bolts, in the correct order.
And lift the head clear. To prevent damage to the valves, which protrude below the head surface, support the assembly on blocks of wood. We will be looking at the head later.

Next remove the water pump and the viscous coupling. If necessary, the coupling can be pressed from the pump.
Remove the crankshaft pulley and the timing scale. On some engines a shim is fitted behind the pulley to align it with the other pulleys. Where a shim is fitted, a letter C is stamped on the crankweb.
To remove the crankshaft front oil seal, screw tool 1 8G 1290 into the seal, then turn the bolt clockwise.
Now remove the oil pump. The pump is driven by the crankshaft and is bolted to the front of the block. Its housing also incorporates a pressure relief valve and the oil filter pedestal.

Next the pistons, remove the connecting rod nuts, caps and lower shells. Fit protective sleeves over the bolts and push the piston and connecting rod assemblies from the bores.
The caps and the connecting rods are numbered for identification. They must be refitted in their original locations, as must the upper and lower shells.
Incidentally, to check a retaining bolt for stretching, run the nut down the full length of its thread using finger pressure only. Replace the nut and the bolt if binding occurs.
You can now remove the crankshaft. Start by removing the main bearing caps and the lower shells. The caps are numbered for identification.

On engines for use with manual transmission, the crankshaft spigot bush is retained by a steel washer.
Special tools 18G 1311 and 18G 1318 are used for removing and refitting the bush. When refitting the bush, fit the washer with its concave face leading. The spigot bush on automatic transmission engines is removed using slide hammer 18G 284 and adaptor 18G 284-5.
Before rebuilding the block, each component must be thoroughly cleaned and carefully examined. If damage is found, find out why it occurred, don't just replace the faulty item.

Six cylinder engine part two
Six cylinder engine part three
Six cylinder engine part four

Torque Wrench Setttings of the 6 Cylinder engine



© rwp june 2003