Rover's Vikingship Overhaul of the six cilinder engine
part two.
Rover's Vikingship































Important!!

This part of site is an attempt to organize and add to the web resources for the Rover SD1 to form a cohesive and easily usable guide for those of us without easy access to expert repair and/or advice. It is not offered in any way as a definitive source and we take no responsibility for any errors that may exist.
Webmaster Rene Winters


Crankshaft and Piston Lubrication

Pay particular attention to the oil passages. From the pump assembly, oil is supplied to the main gallery, and from there, via drillings in the block, to the four crankshaft bearings. Tappings along the gallery accommodate the pressure transducer and the pressure switch.
Drillings in the crankshaft supply oil to the connecting rod journals. The oil finally escapes through a small drilling in each connecting rod and sprays into the piston, mainly for cooling purposes.
Oil from the main gallery is fed to the rocker gear via a non-return valve, which can be seen in the block face.
If the cylinder bores are worn, they should be honed to suit the B-type oversized pistons, the only ones available for service. If oversize pistons are already fitted, the bores must be resleeved. Machining details are given in the repair operation manual. The new sleeves are retained using 'Loquic T and 'Loctite - 40.
Note that sleeves 3 and 4 have a cut-out in their skirt, which must be positioned over the crankshaft centre line.


The Pistons and Connecting Rods

Now piston examination, check the gap between each ring and its groove, then the gap between each ring end when fitted in its bore.
Fit the piston into its bore and check the clearance at right angles to the gudgeon pin.
Next remove the circlips and push out the gudgeon pin and examine the pin and the bush.
If you replace the bush, the oil hole in the new bush must be aligned with the oil hole in the connecting rod.


The Crankshaft

We start this section with the crankshaft. Check the bearing surfaces and crankpins for wear and ovality. If necesary, machine the crankshaft to suit undersized bearing shells. Dimensions are given in your repair operation manual.
Now the bearing clearances, they are measured using Plastigage Incidentally. the crankpin clearances can be checked in the same way, Fit the upper shells, then lower the crankshaft into position and place a strip of Plastigage across the full width of each bearing surface.
Fit the lower shells and caps, in their original locations, and tighten the nuts to the correct torque, taking care not to rotate the crankshaft.
Remove the caps and lower shells and use the scale printed on the pack, to measure the flattened Plastigage at its widest point. The graduation that most closely corresponds is the bearing clearance. If the shells are worn they must be replaced in pairs.
Feed in the thrust washers, at either side of number three upper shell, with the grooves facing outwards. Make a final check that the bearing surfaces are clean. Lubricate the shells; then fit the caps and check the crankshaft end-float. It is measured using a dial gauge. Confirm your reading by rotating the crankshaft and repeating the measurement. The end-float is corrected by selective replacement of the thrust washers.


Now refitting the pistons, lubricate each one in turn; then check that the ring gaps are staggered and are pointing away from the thrust surface.
Compress the rings, with tool 38LI3, and lower the skirt, into its bore. The word 'FRONT' on the piston crown must be towards the front of the engine.
Tap the piston into position using a hammer handle.
Lubricate and fit the lower shells, then fit the cap and torque load the retaining nuts.


Now the crankshaft rear oil seal, place the housing in a press, machined face down. Lubricate the seal, then press it flush using special tool 18G 1293-1.
Apply Hylomar sealant to the housing machined surface, locate guide 18G 1293-2 over the crankshaft flange and slide the housing into position. Tighten the bolts evenly to the correct torque.


The Oil Pump

Next the oil pump and pressure relief valve. First remove the circlip and withdraw the drive dog then remove the cover plate, '0' ring and inner and outer rotors.
The pressure relief valve is released by depressing the plug and removing the split pin.
After cleaning the pump housing fit a new O ring to the valve plug.
Fit the plunger spring and plug to the housing and retain them using a new split pin.


Clean the pump rotors and examine them for damage. Refit the outer rotor, with the chamfered edge towards the casing and the inner rotor, with the ident mark towards the casing. Line up the rotors using the drive dog.
Then measure three clearances: between the lobes of the two rotors, between the outer rotor and the casing and between the rotors and the cover plate. The correct clearances are given in the repair operation manual. Replace worn parts as necessary.
Lubricate the rotors, then fit a new O ring and the cover plate.
Secure the drive dog with a new circlip and after applying a band of RTV Silicone compound to the pump face, refit the pump and timing scale.


Clean the oil pump strainer and refit it, using a new joint washer. The bolts should be coated with Loctite 602.
Now the crankshaft front oil seal, fit guide, 1 8G 1291 -1, lubricate the seal then press it into position, using 18G 1291-4.
Fit the crankshaft pulley, then the water pump and viscous coupling. Use a new gasket and tighten the bolts evenly to the correct torque.


At the rear of the engine, fit the transmission adaptor plate and the flywheel then check the flywheel for run out.


Six cylinder engine part one
Six cylinder engine part three
Six cylinder engine part four

Torque Wrench Setttings of the 6 Cylinder engine

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