Rover's Vikingship Overhaul of the Rover V8 engine
part two
Rover's Vikingship


























If you have technical Rover V8 problems aks Rene Winters

Important!!

This part of site is an attempt to organize and add to the web resources for the Rover SD1 to form a cohesive and easily usable guide for those of us without easy access to expert repair and/or advice. It is not offered in any way as a definitive source and we take no responsibility for any errors that may exist.
Webmaster Rene Winters


the Rover V8 engine overhaul
Part II

The tappet assemblies are non serviceable and must be replaced if excessively worn or damaged.
Wear such as this at the lower end of the body is caused by side thrust of the cam against the body. It is normal unless definitely grooved or scored.
Similarly wear such as this circular pattern on the tappet face is normal since the tappet rotates during its operation.
If the tappet face shows wear like this, then the tappet has not been rotating. This can be caused by the tappet seizing in its bore or by a worn cam lobe face.


Replace any tappets where the upper face which comes into contact with the pushrod, is rough or damaged.
Care must be taken when replacing either the tappets or the cam. Early engines feature phosphated cam lobes and ordinary tappets. Later engines feature phosphated tappets and ordinary cam lobes. Whichever the case, make sure you replace parts with similar ones as phosphated tappets must not run on a phosphated cam. The phosphated parts can be recognised by their black surfaces.
Similarly check the push rods and replace any having rough or damaged ball ends or seats.
The rocker shafts are easily dismantled, but care must be taken to retain the parts in the correct order for reassembly.
Examine the rocker arms taking particular care to check the oil feed hole and push rod seat. Where new rocker arms are to be fitted, remove the protective coating from them before reassembly.


Oil Pump Overhaul

The supply of lubricating oil to the engine is essential to its future life. In the process of removing the timing cover to gain access to the camshaft you will also have removed the oil pump.
So make a point of inspecting the oil pump during any engine overhaul. The externally mounted pump is simple to dismantle, after which its components should be cleaned and inspected. Look for excessive wear or scores on parts replacing as necessary
Assemble the gears into the front cover and place a straight edge over the gears. Check that there is a gap of at least 0.05mm (0.0018in) between the straight edge and the cover. Always fit the correct gasket on reassembly.
If the gap is less than the specified limit, look for wear in the front cover gear pocket and on the ends of the gears replacing as necessary.
Inspect the relief valve for wear and scores. Check that it slides within its bore with no perceptible side movement.
Check the spring and clean the gauze filter.


The normal engine oil pressure is 30lbf/ins2 at 2400 r.p.m. Do not attempt to increase this pressure by fitting a stronger pressure relief valve spring.
If you do, then the increased oil pressure will cause the oil in the tappets to froth at a lower engine speed, restricting engine performance.
When reassembling the pump, pack the housing with petroleum jelly, such that the jelly is forced into every cavity between the gears and casing when the gears are fitted. This will ensure that the oil pump primes itself on starting.
If the pump is not packed correctly, so that air pockets are left in the jelly, the pump will not prime itself, with the inevitable consequences.
The same procedure can be used to reprime an engine in which the oil has drained back from the pump. When changing an oil filter, refit the new one immediately to prevent the oil draining back.


Cylinder Head Overhaul

The next components for removal are the cylinder heads. Although they are inter-changeable when new, they must remain in their respective positions once fitted. Mark the heads to ensure correct reassembly, if you are going to remove the alternator bracket, which would otherwise identify the right hand one.
Slacken the cylinder head bolts evenly, following the reverse order to the tightening sequence.
Once you have removed the bolts, clean them in 3M Solvent No. 2 using a wire brush. If the solvent is not available paraffin can be used for this operation.
If it is not possible to do this immediately, store them in a suitable solvent.
Failure to do this will allow the sealant used previously to air harden, making subsequent replacement an impossible task. It will also affect your torque figures on reassembly.


You can now lift the cylinder heads away from the engine and remove the sparking plugs and valves using the appropriate tools. Take care to store the valves in their fitted order.
Carefully remove all the carbon deposits from the components. Use a soft wire brush when cleaning the combustion chambers. Then inspect the parts replacing where necessary.
Valve faces should be ground to an angle of 45 but should not be ground to a knife edge.
The correct angle for the valve seats is 46+ 1/4.
If you have cut a valve seat, refit the valve and measure the height of the valve stem above the outer valve spring seat surface on the head. If the height exceeds 47.63 mm (1.875 in), grind the end of the valve stem to fit.
The heads can be skimmed if required. But the distance between the face of the cylinder head and this boss must not fall below 6.35 mm (0.25 in). The reading is obtained by taking the average reading from each of the end chambers. Skim both heads the same amount. Otherwise the inlet manifold will not seat correctly on reassembly.


Valve guides are easily changed using the appropriate special tools, for removal seen here on the left and fitting on the right.
However, later cylinder heads feature spring guides so the distance piece cannot be used. In this case the valve guide should be drifted into place so that the fitted height is 19 mm (0.75 in).
In continuing our dismantling sequence the next items to be removed are the sump, oil pick+ up strainer and baffle.
When carrying out an in the car repair which necessitates sump removal, you will need to raise the engine by placing a jack under the pulley. Make sure that the timing sensor pip on the pulley is clear of the jack pad.


The V8 overhaul part I
The V8 overhaul part III
The V8 overhaul part IV
The V8 overhaul part V

Torque Wrench Setttings of the V8

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