Rover's Vikingship Overhaul of the Rover V8 engine
part four
Rover's Vikingship

























If you have technical Rover V8 problems aks Rene Winters

Important!!

This part of site is an attempt to organize and add to the web resources for the Rover SD1 to form a cohesive and easily usable guide for those of us without easy access to expert repair and/or advice. It is not offered in any way as a definitive source and we take no responsibility for any errors that may exist.
Webmaster Rene Winters


THE REASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
The Crankshaft

Now reassembly. Although crankshaft refitment may appear straight forward the rear main bearing cap contains the rear crankshaft oil seal so a set procedure must be followed.
Begin by locating the upper main bearing shells in the block. Make sure that the oil holes correspond with the drillings in the block and that the flanged shell is fitted to the centre bearing.
Lubricate the shells with clean engine oil and lower the crankshaft into place. Lubricate the lower bearing shells and fit numbers 1 to 4 main bearing caps leaving the bolts slack. Do not fit the rear main bearing cap yet.


Align the thrust faces of the centre main bearing by carefully tapping the appropriate end of the crankshaft. Then torque tighten the main bearing bolts to 7.0-7.6 kgf m (50-55 Ibf ft).
Now fit the side seals into grooves in the rear main bearing cap. Although the seals will protrude about 1.5 mm (0.062 in) above the cap face, they will be compressed into place when fitted, so do not cut them. If you do, the seal will be rendered ineffective.


Now apply Universal Jointing Compound to the rearmost half of the parting face of the cap.
Lubricate the bearing half and cap side seals with clean engine oil and fit the cap to the block. Do not tighten the bolts yet. Instead tension the bolts by 1/4 turn equally and then back them off 1 complete turn.
Make sure that the journal and the rear oil seal guide, tool number RO 1014, are scrupulously clean. Then position the guide over the flange. Lubricate the guide and journal with clean engine oil.


Taking care not to handle the lip at any time, visually check that the new seal is not damaged in any way.
Position the seal on the guide, with its lip towards the engine and push it home so that it abuts the step in the recess. Remove the guide and torque tighten the bolts.
Now check that the crankshaft end float is within the appropriate limits.
Incidentally a leaking rear oil seal can be changed with the engine in situ, once the gearbox and sump have been removed. The procedure for replacing the leaking seal is the same as that we have just described.


The Piston/Connecting Rod Assemblies.

When refitting the piston and connecting rod assemblies, first rotate the crankshaft so that the appropriate big end is at B.D.C.
Next locate the upper big end shell in the connecting rod and hold it in place with the guide bolts.
Position the oil control piston rings so that the ring gaps are all on the same side with their gaps approximately 25 mm (1 in) apart. Then position the compression rings so that their gaps are on opposite sides of the piston between the gudgeon pin and piston thrust face.
You will note that one side of the jointing face of each big end contains a groove.


This enables a spray feed of oil to lubricate the wall of the opposite cylinder. Therefore it is important to fit the pistons the correct way round.
Each connecting rod is marked with a boss and each connecting rod cap with a rib. Locate the piston in its bore with a piston ring compressor. Make sure that the boss on the connecting rod faces the right way, that is towards the front of the engine on the right hand bank of cylinders, as shown in red, and towards the rear of the engine for the left hand bank of cylinders, as shown in blue. When correctly fitted, the bosses and ribs for each pair of connecting rods on one journal should face each other.
The connecting rod bolts should be tightened to 4.9 kgf m (35 lbf ft).
Once you have fitted a pair of piston connecting rod assemblies, check that the end float on the journal is within the limits of 0.15 to 0.37 mm (0.006 to 0.014 in). Check that each connecting rod moves freely in a sideways direction.


Next insert the camshaft and the Timing Gears
Then refit the timing gears and chain. First fit the gears without the chain. Set the engine to T.D.C. on number one piston, then turn the camshaft so that the gears are aligned as shown here. Remove the gears, locate them in the chain and refit them keeping the same relative positions.
The depth of the slot in the camshaft drive gear is designed to be larger than the height of the key in the shaft. The gap is used to provide an oil way for lubrication of the timing gears.
During reassembly check that the height of the key does not exceed 30.15 mm (1.187 in).
Refit the spacer, larger face out and then refit the distributor drive gear making sure that the annular groove faces the spacer.


The V8 overhaul part I
The V8 overhaul part II
The V8 overhaul part III
The V8 overhaul part V

Torque Wrench Setttings of the V8

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